This post has more pictures than usual because I really wanted to show what kind of experience I had in the “ghetto”. When I got there it only took minutes for one of them to tell me I suit the ghetto. In a strange way I was honored.
A couple friends of mine who stay in Ocho Rios invited me to their REAL home in Spanish Town, in the parish of St Catherine. I agreed without hesitation, not knowing really what I was in for. We drove just over an hour and reached their home after dark so I never got the full effect til the next morning. This is a picture of the front yard and behind those walls is where 9 of them live.
Spanish Town ghetto
The night we arrived I was first shown to my host’s room. All the rooms in this home have separate, padlocked entrances. His room was around the back of the house which was pitch dark at night. I followed them in and used the flashlight on my cell phone to see where I was walking. The next morning I could see that this is what the walkway looked like.
Back of house in Spanish Town
When we arrived we all sat in one room and chatted for a while, and before long one of the brothers who lived in another room came to join us. Through the wall I could hear the sound of an infant child so I asked about it. The brother told me it was his daughter in the next room and asked if I’d like to see her. I TOTALLY wanted to! He led me around the front of the house to another door and inside I saw his girlfriend and 3 girls, aged 8, 6 and 6 months. The baby immediately smiled at me and the other two girls looked cautious. I quickly scanned the room and noticed that in this 20X20 space was a double bed for the mom, dad and baby, and the other two girls slept in a single bed together. There was a TV on a shelf, a stove in the corner and that was pretty much it. Wow. It made me feel greedy the way I live back home.
Back in my friend’s room now I scanned his space. Just a double bed, dresser and a laundry basket. This is looking out his door into the dark walkway. That walkway is also the place where they told me to pee when I had to go LOL. There are no washrooms or running water here.
We all stayed up a while listening to music til another brother showed up. He was a real livewire compared to the others I was with. I suspect he’s the hothead of the family. He was really nice to me though, and all of them agreed that they were going to take me to a street party in a garrison tonight. I was hesitant but mildly amused at the thought so we all got dressed and hit the streets. I admit that there were a few moments walking the dark streets of Spanish Town after midnight with 3 Jamaican men, that my mind wandered to the list of things that could go wrong at any time! I said a little prayer for safety and decided to enjoy the walk.
The street party was actually pretty lame LOL. It shut down about 20 minutes after we arrived. I was a little disappointed but kind of impressed that they told me the police like to keep things quiet and keep parties under control. Not what I was expecting. So there we were at 2:30am in the streets of Spanish Town trying to catch a taxi home. Well this place isn’t like a tourist place….taxi’s are not abundant. We ended up catching a ride with a random car that passed, and I think they only stopped because they saw a white female in the group.
The picture above is the room I got to sleep in. Its their mother’s room but the mother works away from home so there was an extra bed for me. I felt honored they would let me have her room. One of the guys stayed in there with me for my comfort level and we shared the space with the odd spider on the wall behind us. We laid awake and chatted a long time, til about 4am. It was at that point he told me he felt honored that I would accept their invitation to come there, and that he felt like “somebody” because I came. I couldn’t help it…..I cried. And I wondered if he was in any way embarrassed of where he came from. I told him the total reverse….that I was the one who was honored to be a part of their everyday lives.
The next morning I was awoken at 7:30 by the sweet sounds of a cooing baby through the wall. The door to the room I was in was open to the outside and everyone was already busy about their day. I saw one of the brothers preparing bath water for the baby.
I went outside and said good morning to everyone, including the little girls from the night before. I did a lot this day but I’m saving some of it for another post. I will tell you that around lunchtime they were gracious enough to ask what I would like and they would go to the market. So I turned it around and said I would like to take care of lunch. I wanted curry chicken and I gave them $1000 JMD to get what was needed at the market. $1000 JMD converts to about $15 USD…..and that fed 9 people. Amazing. Everyone voted this brother the best cook so he took care of lunch. Prepared outside on this table and cooked inside on their gas stove. I was completely in my element here….loved it.
While lunch was being prepared I took note of how things went in this yard. There are big barrels of rainwater all over the place and this is their drinking, cooking and bathing water. They simply scoop water from the big barrels into small tin cans and use it for whatever. Whenever I squatted behind the house one of them was always gracious enough to pour water over my hands to wash. And one of them was bathing from a barrel on the other side of the yard while lunch was cooking.
Blue water barrels at side of house
Bathing with a tin can.
My summary of this experience….I was in complete awe that they all function normally and the only reason they are “poor” is because we look at them and say “awwww those poor people”. Everyone right down to the 6 year old has it completely together here! The little girls take care of the baby while the dad cooks. They know how to hang laundry. This is just the way they live and they don’t seem to be upset that they bathe from rain barrels. Its all just what you’re used to and we are REALLY spoiled in North America.
Even though I was hot, sweaty and felt kinda gross without a shower I would do it again in a heartbeat. In fact I’m going back to see them in September. The chicken was some of the best food I’ve eaten and no, I didn’t get sick from eating in these conditions. My friends have a really old laptop so I uploaded ALL the pics I took of them and the kids so they would have something to look at. I can’t imagine raising children and never having any photo’s as keepsakes. I can’t wait to go back and see the baby walking a few months.
This was by far, one of my most treasured experiences in Jamaica and I will definitely be going back.
6:04 pm on May 3rd, 2009
this is just the kind of experience i want on my vacations, this is the reason i travel. To walk in other cultures shoes…
You are blessed and doing a wonderful thing kristi!
7:34 pm on May 3rd, 2009
ahhh bathing outside with rainwater…cutting up chicken outside…brings back memories of my days in St Ann back in the day!!!
7:47 pm on May 3rd, 2009
Yes it was a fabulous experience. I’m in the process of sending a photo album down for that family via Damswell. And I’m gonna take lots more stuff for them next time I go back.
2:11 am on May 4th, 2009
This is exactly what people from the US can’t understand. How another culture can have all the riches of life yet have a “poor” life. I personally feel exactly how you did “honored” to have these types of experiences. We all should experience something like this at least once in our lives. To walk in anothers shoes and truly live life! Your story made me smile, cry and feel blessed.
Thank you!
6:06 am on May 4th, 2009
Thanks for sharing this with the rest of the world, Kristie.
I am certainly going to stay at my friend’s in the guetto in pineapple (Ochi).
I have been looking for information like this for a month. It is absolutely brilliant. You have some guts girl!
8:00 am on May 4th, 2009
Thank you very much! And thanks for the inspiration to post it right away. I knew you were waiting for it. Keep in touch!
8:02 am on May 4th, 2009
wonderful report Jam, you are true lover of the culture and people.thanks for sharing your wonderful journey with me.
LJ
8:03 am on May 4th, 2009
Anytime girl. Your trip is coming right up and you must be excited now!!!!
Can’t wait to meet you down the road sometime!!
8:03 am on May 5th, 2009
I came across your blog through BlogCatalog a few days ago and have been riveted ever since! I like the look and feel of your blog – very pleasing and uncluttered. Easy to navigate around too! You write really well… so much so that I can actually visualise Jamaica… in my mind’s eye. Great pics too! I knew about the location and geography of the Caribbean/West Indies and their cricket team of course! Brian Lara, Sir Viv Richards, and the like… and Usain Bolt as well. But, very little about their art, culture, and everyday life… your blog fill in those gaps quite well! Thanks a bunch!
8:43 am on May 5th, 2009
Thank you very much Roshmi! It makes me happy and inspires me when I can share pieces of the world with others who wouldn’t normally get to see or know this stuff. I really appreciate your comments.
7:44 am on May 7th, 2009
Superb, i love reading this kind stuff. its brilliant how people live in other places isn’t it. If the world wasn’t such a greedy place most of us would be happy bathing in a tin.
I had a similar adventure in Laos, they lived in a room with no windows and one door with newspaper on the wall. They had nothing, but he had a job. he and his girlfriend lived there and do you know what i think i will write about it instead on my blog…. talk soon, good write up. love it.
8:01 am on May 7th, 2009
Thanks Richard!!! Link me when you write your post, I’d love to read it!!!
Yes this was an experience of a lifetime and I’m definitely going back next trip. Fell in love with this family.
1:18 pm on May 7th, 2009
Very nice site. I like photography.
4:40 pm on May 7th, 2009
Thanks Mike! I dropped by your site and LOVE your photography!!!!
5:55 pm on May 7th, 2009
I JUST CAME BACK FROM A NINE DAY VACATION, I STAYED AT THE NEGRIL TREEHOUSE AND THE LAST 4 AT THE GRAND PALLUIDAM, I HAVE NEVER FELT SO GUILTY IN MY LIFE, I WILL GO BACK AND THIS TIME I WILL MAKE IT AN ADVENTURE JUST LIKE YOURS.
9:28 pm on May 7th, 2009
Well if you’re going back let me know and I’ll find you a wicked place to stay that’s cheap and you can mingle with all the locals you like!!!!
7:56 am on May 14th, 2009
It is great that you saw this part of Jamaica – not great that this exists though. I know Jamaica has its big problems not only with poverty, but with drugs and gun crime so it is probably dangerous to go out into the communities like this. Did you at any time feel threatened or afraid when you were looking around?
10:05 am on May 14th, 2009
No I never felt “threatend” at all, I was with people I trusted. There was a fraction of a moment that I thought about my safety though. I asked them about all that and they said they were pretty much born and raised here and have never seen or heard an incident in their immediate neighborhood.
10:15 pm on September 7th, 2009
tell me or send me more info on spanishtown st.catherine jamaica please and also bridgeport school in portmore jamaica.
11:00 pm on September 7th, 2009
These are the only 2 days I’ve spent in Spanish Town, I don’t have much more info yet. But I’m going back this month so stay tuned and I’ll bring back some more for you I hope. What do you want to know?
9:07 pm on January 11th, 2010
Thank you so much for your blogs. I’m just coming back from a 3 week vacation in Jamaica (Spanish Town, Portmore, and St. Thomas), and your blog really captures the essence of our country. Thank you so much for the images and sobering reality of just how spoiled and greedy we can be here in the States at times. Going home always reminds me not to take things for granted. Oh, and the rain water is heaven for your skin. I love it. In the country, we bathe in the river…your skin will be as smooth as a baby’s!
)
9:55 pm on January 11th, 2010
Thank you so much for the compliments, its my pleasure. True story…..I get so much pleasure out of all my experiences.
I’ve heard its been non-stop rain lately! It betta dun by the time I get there in Feb!!
7:05 pm on February 13th, 2010
you know something, this is just disgusting, i cant believe they invited a tourist to somewhere looking like this are they crazy.
i live in Spanish Town and i know there are places like this here its a good thing i don’t live anywhere near them.
they are poor because they fail to use contraceptive methods so all they do is breed, breed breed and make themselves poor too much mouth to be fed.
the truth is that Jamaicans are to be blamed for living like this not the government.
8:32 pm on February 13th, 2010
I wasn’t going to approve your comment but then I thought it’s good to have both sides of the fence…everyone’s entitled to an opinion.
In a way I think you’re right, people live the way they do for a reason. If they wanted to live differently they probably would try a lot harder. However before judging anyone it’s good to know the whole story. They all have jobs and go to work so if this is the best they can do then don’t knock it. And there are only 3 kids there, I don’t think that’s an oversized family at all….pretty average if you ask me. So it’s not like all they do is breed. LOL I guess if you have a problem with too much breed you should talk to the men who have 8 kids by 8 different females.
Or how about chatting to Elephant man’s 24 kids! hahaha
Anyways, yes I do think SOME Jamaican’s mentality is a little too laid back and they could do better for themselves if they had more motivation. But I do NOT think its fair to make sweeping generalizations about people you don’t know.
Thanks for your input! It’s as real as it gets.
1:45 pm on March 7th, 2010
@Anthonette Wow i can’t believe what you said. I was born in Jamaica I lived in Kingston, and not every single Jamaican’s lives in the ghetto, I didn’t, (just so you know). Every where you go there are people who live in bad conditions. I lived in Kingston and everyone thinks Kingston is ghetto, I don’t get it. Its not the whole Jamaican people live in poverty my dear. There are parts where you wouldn’t even believe is Jamaica and parts that are really beautiful. So back to you, you said you couldn’t believe that’s where they invited a tourist to come, are you serious she obviously wanted to go there. Not everyone like to be fake OK, most people that lives in the ghetto are really nice people AND THEY DO TRY HARD TO MAKE THEIR LIVES BETTER. I have been to America ( Atlanta,Chicago, California, Florida, Washington, Wisconsin, and my favorite NEW YORK) and I have been to the HOODS their too, and I was shocked because I did not know that Americans could live in those places.And my cousin was robbed in new york(Brooklyn).That just show you that every country got there flaws. And Jamaica do so does the whole Caribbean, and north America. So don’t make it look like they’re only ghettos in Jamaica with people who sit around and have 50 babies and they all are uneducated. I must say i am really offended not by JC but by Anthonette who seems to live in a little box, Hun poverty is all around the world. In addition if you really like a place, and you really want to see every where and experience the cultures there (DON’T JUST SEEK OUT THE BAD PARTS). Then do it go talk to the locals if you are up for the challenge visit the ghetto visit the suburbs at least when you get back home you have both views of Jamaica or any country at that. And thats what i do my next place to go is Great Britain.
PS: DO YOU EVEN KNOW THE HISTORY OF SPANISH TOWN
ah gush wah we seh we life soon start outt but Wi nuh mek dat badda WI. ONE LOVE
9:00 am on March 8th, 2010
@Anthonette
OMG…!! You are either a young person with no brain, or an old person with no real experience of life & no F**KING brain…!!
I was actually gobsmacked at the words that you wrote…! How could someone be so stupid…!
You have no right to speak these words that I have just seen…!
How can you say that they were ‘disgusting’ for inviting a tourist to where they are from…! They were simply showing her how they live! The people are her friends so why wouldnt she go there…! Im sure if she felt uncomfortable, they would take her out of there! & just like jamboy said, there is alot of crime all over the world, not just Jamaica…! Maybe you should take a look around where you come from and you might be suprised…!
Only the other day I was reading a story in the paper about how a mother had given birth to 14 children and had all of them taken away from her because she wasnt ‘fit’ to look after them! She knew everytime she had a baby that they would be taken away from her, yet she didnt care and kept havin babie!! They didnt even have the same dad!!
Now you tell me which is more acceptable… having people in Jamaica making a FAMILY and taking care of them and giving them the best life they know how and can (which when they dont know any different, would be suitable for anyone)… or having 14 kids and them being taken care of by the government…???!!!
In my opinion you are one STUPID BITCH…!!!!!!!
Go slap yourself!!!!!
11:20 am on March 8th, 2010
*ding ding ding* The match is over LOL.
Having said all that….let’s take the war somewhere else.
5:40 pm on March 8th, 2010
Dear idiot-Aka comment 23.
Really are you serious. Who are you to be so spiteful-whats it to you how they live honesty.Sorry to disappoint you really i am but having children is not a crime, and its non of your god damn business if they do or don’t.Its really unfair that you’ve decided to pollute JC’S good doing with those awful and unjustified opinions. It just shows that people like yourself really have a very very VERY basic outlook on life! Next time please do exercise your brain before typing, the only people in my opinion that cause the world that we live in to become so greedy and unjustified are people that are very narrow minded, with far too much money and time on their hands.
Spread the love not the venom. And please do not embarrass our race with comments that weren’t necessary and only cause intentional harm. Its not normal behaviour.I see that comment as an attention seeking.
Really gets my goat.
Sorry JC i couldn’t stand bak on this occasion, please do continue your hard work though-its appreciated!
5:52 pm on March 8th, 2010
No problem Vanay, everyone’s entitled to say what they want as long as it stays under control.
5:29 am on June 11th, 2010
Hello JC. I just read your posts and i can’t believe the life you are living in. I am so jealous! I am from Greece and I am trying to organise a trip to Jamaica but this is not so easy for me. I love their culture and their music but I am pretty sure that if I ever accomplish to visit Jamaica i will never see it as you did. I heard that this is dangerous if you do not any locals. I am very fur away to know any Jamaican. I really hope that if you see my post you will try to give me some advices about my dream-trip! I am sorry for my poor English! Please tell me how can I see the other side of life ( the true and beautiful one and not only the rich and fake side of world).
10:00 am on June 11th, 2010
Thank you Erenia. If you want to know anything just let me know. Ask whatever questions you have!
1:29 pm on June 12th, 2010
You are so kind! I have so many questions! At first, can i reach you someway in forum? Where should i stay that is not expensive? Just think that i will be able to make this trip in two years maybe. And can I come through the real life in Jamaica just in seven days? I hope when i will finally go to Jamaica you will be there and i will be able to meet you!
10:26 pm on June 15th, 2010
@Erenia. your trip will at no time bring you into harms way because you don’t know any locals. I know every Jamaican loves tourists, we love showing people around, we love boasting our culture. So don’t worry about how far away you live. I’m pretty sure you can find so local friendswithin a day or two. Just go out have fun and talk to as many people as you can. All the best with your trip
10:29 pm on June 15th, 2010
Thank you for this Demoya! Its so encouraging and reassuring to hear LOCALS say that. This is what I try to tell people, in all my experiences you Jamaicans have been waaay more than accommodating and are so proud to show us around and help us experience your vibes. Respect.
And thank you for reading
5:05 pm on July 8th, 2010
JC
First of all, I must commend you on being such a brave person. I come from Trinidad and fortunately the economy there is much better than Jamaica, yet we do have some people who are very poor. When I was growing up I did pass through neighbourhoods where there were very poor people. At school, their kids were always dressed in clean school uniforms and one would never have known that they were so poor. I myself did become friendly against my guardian’s wishes with one or two poor kids and did enjoy visiting them on one or two occasions and what I envied most was the bond they had with each other and the happiness that they shared. They always made jokes, sang and danced. Although I lived in a beautiful house and a nice neighbourhood, I did not share that happiness. Those friends of mine have worked very hard and are all professionals today and so are their children. They now have beautiful homes and live very comfortable lifestyles.
Circumstances make people poor. The fact that your friends invited you to their home meant that they really trusted you and saw that you were different because we West Indians are very sensitive about our surroundings. You were brave but at the same time you trusted them and they proved to you that they were trustworthy. It is nice for once that a human being is not phony like most people are and can understand that the world is not a perfect place. God bless. I hope that your friends’ situation will become much better as time goes by. What we sometimes fail to realize is that lots of unfortunate things happen in people’s lives that they are not truly responsible for.
11:18 pm on July 8th, 2010
Wow Ginger, thank you so much for your comments and for sharing your experience. The last paragraph you wrote is so true…and they remain trusted friends to this day. Will be going back to see them yet again in a couple weeks. It’s funny, the person I was tied to who introduced me to his family is no longer in the picture at all yet I continue to keep in touch with the kids and their mom and dad, and the brothers. They make sure I know I’m welcome any time and I LOVE watching the girls grow! I think their situation will improve, they’ve been working hard on starting a shop….it just takes a long LONG time when you’re putting in a little money at a time.
Thank you SO much for reading and commenting. I’ll have an update on them in a few weeks.
11:35 am on July 15th, 2010
u are a very ignorant person to say genarally that north america has it good there are many places in namerica just like this one with not only black people but whites as well
1:13 pm on July 15th, 2010
That may be true JCS but #1 this blog is about Jamaica, not North America. #2 North Americans definitely have more opportunity than Jamaicans. There is no social system to speak of in Jamaica.
And no, I’m not ignorant. Thanks.